Solely
for my own benefit, I am recounting here my 1982 hitchhiking trek from
CA to the Bread Loaf Writers' Workshop in Middlebury, VT. This is
Part II.
There's
a spot in the middle of Nevada where several smaller highways
intersect the interstate, and there I found a group of hitchhikers
patiently waiting their turn for an
eastbound ride. One fellow stood thumbing a ride on the shoulder while
four more played poker in the dust. The gamblers were the next four
in line to hitchhike, as I found out from others who sat in the
desert heat waiting for their opportunity to lose money while waiting
for their opportunity to proceed eastward. Those were the rules.
(The fellow on the left is cheating.)I
sat in the dirt anticipating a Reno-like eight-hour stretch here when
a car pulled over and picked up the designated hitchhiker, quickly
replaced by a card player, and the longest-tenured guy in “the
bullpen” moved into the game. Soon the whole process repeated
itself until I found myself next in line for a card game I wanted no
part of. My funds were limited, as were my poker skills.
The
game seemed to be heating up as an RV pulled over—the one guy
running to jump in—followed by another car that also pulled onto
the shoulder. The pot seemed to have grown too big for any of the
participants to risk leaving, so I ran to the waiting vehicle.
Tossing
my pack in, I jumped in and found my own knees in my face—the floor
of the backseat full of nudie magazines. I thanked the two guys in
the front for stopping while shifting magazines till my feet found
their way to the floor. They asked where I was going.
“First
Minneapolis,” I said. “Ultimately Vermont.”
“You're
in luck, we're goin' to Sioux Falls,” said the passenger. Luck
indeed! I had friends in Sioux Falls and a roof over my head for a
night or two. Having seen enough of Nevada's scenery, I picked a
magazine off the pile.
“What's
in Sioux Falls for you guys?” I asked, just to be sociable.
They
both laughed. “See that RV up ahead?” the driver asked. “That's
my old man. He come out to take me back to go to court.” He eyed me
in the rearview mirror. “They wanna put me away for a real,
lo-o-ong time.” The two had another laugh over that.
They
didn't elaborate. I didn't ask. I did slip my handy map book inside
the girlie mag, figured I had parts of three states and twenty-some
hours—barring stops—to spend with a guy facing a stretch in
prison and a buddy who found that hilarious. I picked the next
good-sized town on the map.
“Come
to think of it,” I began, “my brother's got a friend in
Winnemucca he wanted me to look up because the guy owes him some
money.” As the Winnemucca exit and a Motel 6 sign came into view, I
said: “Just dump me here and I'll cut across this field.” The
field stretched out maybe 150 yards between the interstate and the
motel, a chain-link fence cut across at about the halfway point.
Dusk
had set in. I trudged through thigh-high grass to the fence, climbed
it and splashed down into knee-high water. Marshland in Nevada?
Climbing back over, I sloshed back to the highway and a mile or so to
the Winnemucca exit, then the same distance down main street—passing
'No Vacancy' signs along the way—and got the last room at
the Motel 6. I believe I was overcharged. Seems there was a rodeo in
town.
Back
out to the interstate the next morning, I passed a couple also
looking for a ride, so I moved on toward an entrance ramp that might
offer me more opportunity. Before I could get there a guy pulled
over. “Don't like picking up couples,” he said as I climbed in.
“Nothing but trouble.” He was 35 – 40 and heading for New York
City.
“Wow...
Tom Waits,” I said of the music coming from his tape deck. “Haven't
heard anything but lousy country music since I left California.” He
seemed like a great guy. One I could've traveled all the way to New
York with—except that I still had two months to kill before Bread
Loaf began.
“Got
some groceries in back,” he said. “Oughta be a melon on top.”
I
reached back into the bag and pulled out a cantaloupe.
He
reached under his seat and pulled out a two-foot-long machete.
This
is what they call, in the biz, a cliffhanger. Next time: Lawnchairs
are everywhere.