(I
prefaced Part I of this series by saying I may not get this
done before the 40th anniversary of my hitchhiking trip
from San Jose to Bread Loaf in Vermont, which I'm chronicling here.
That anniversary has arrived. My last installment was
over 16 months ago. Hey, I had a novel to write.)
Okay,
now it gets weird. I'm on a roadway with no shoulder, behind me is a
strip mall that seems to run all the way to New York City, across the
road is a beautiful, hilly, wooded area. I'm in PA or NJ. Who knows, for sure? I'm standing on a sidewalk
with my thumb out trying to get the attention of rush-hour traffic
commuters who have nowhere to pull over even if they want to pick me
up. I've been standing here for hours with my chances of making New York City by nightfall slipping away.
Behind
me, I hear the crunching of tires stopping in a parking lot. A fat
man's sweaty face shows in the driver side window. “Nowhere to pull
over on this road,” he says. I don't know if he somehow saw me from
a distance or passed me earlier and doubled back. I didn't much care.
“It's
the only road I got,” I said, climbing in. He immediately starts in
on his own hitchhiking story—they all got 'em—only his is
different. He's twelve and a station wagon full of guys pick him up
and ultimately gang rape him. He tells it vividly. They leave him in
his shame and the next morning he's hitchhiking again and the same
station wagon pulls over. They apologize and promise to not do it
again. He accepts the ride and gets raped again. Fool me once...
Of
course, I'm feeling pretty sorry for this poor sap, though his tales
of subsequent therapy sessions grow tiresome. Suddenly he swings a
left up into the picturesque hills. “I have to take a leak,” he
says after I question the detour.
Now,
short of jumping from a moving vehicle, I have no escape. He turns up
a path and further back into the woods. He finally parks. I don't mind saying, I'm scared. “This is
where the gays hang out,” he says and exits the car. There's a
shack—outhouse—but he walks past it and out of sight. He's fat
and, at 25, I'm still in pretty good shape, so I'm not too worried
about him—unless he returns with others set on retribution for the
gang rape twenty-some years earlier. I'm checking the door handles as
he returns, having taken longer than one would to piss, though not
long enough to establish any sort of romantic relationship back
there. And, thankfully, alone.
That's
his story. Here my memory fails, but somehow I end up on a ramp to nowhere overlooking the
Holland Tunnel with the sun beginning to set.
“What
the hell're you doin' up here? Nobody gonna pick you up here!” a
man calls out, pulling over to pick me up.
“You
just did,” I say, throwing my pack in the backseat and climbing in.
Dismissing
that, he asks: “Where you headed?”
I
point to the NYC skyline and say: “There. Specifically St. Mark's
Place.” I mention the name of the restaurant my friend Kevin
Hazlett works at.
© photo by Paul Wright This is Saint Marks Place as it looked in November 1982.
He
puts it in gear. “I'm gonna take you to Staten Island,” he says.
I protest. He goes on: “I'm gonna drop you at a bus stop that goes
directly to the Ferry, which is free going into the city. Get off the
Ferry and there's a subway station right there. Take the subway to
Sheridan Station, walk up the steps and you'll see your buddy's bar
right across the street.”
Again,
jumping from a moving vehicle is not an option. The fellow drives
like a madman to Staten Island, telling me all the way about the two
women he was with the night before, how much coke they did, how much
liquor they drank, and how much sex—and at what angles—they
enjoyed.
He
was wrong about the bus and I had no change. Driver drops me at a
stop with a bodega for change and the correct bus heading for the Staten Island
Ferry. I enjoy a nice boat ride, get off and buy a token, next
train's mine. I jump off at Sheridan Station, walk up to the street
and before I can sit at a sidewalk table, Kevin is out the door with a Beck's Beer on his tray.
“How
was your trip?” he asks.