(Part
IV of my series on a hitchhiking trip from CA to VT and the Bread
Loaf Writers' Workshop back in 1982. Chronicled here before I forget
it entirely.)
Don't
recall many specifics about my stay in Minneapolis—just another
trip back home. I did run in an old friend, John Hazlett, who
mentioned that his brother Kevin was living in New York City. He sets
things up so that I could spend a week on Kevin's couch. This was
significant since I had a place to stay near Chicago and a place to
stay in Stamford, CT, which would be my last stop before reaching
Bread Loaf. A week in NY made my schedule complete.
While
home, there was a letter from Bread Loaf informing me that my first
two choices to read my work, John Irving and Erica Jong, had to
cancel. (Irving had to shoot the Garp movie.) I opted for John
Gardner or Tim O'Brien, who I had been reading on the trip.
I
made Chicago in less time than you could drive it as every ride
happened before I could even set my pack down, none of the drivers
stopped for gas or food, and next thing I knew I was in Glen Ellyn—a
suburb right on the train tracks where Din Din had relatives who had
stayed with us in San Jose.
I
stayed with them over the weekend. Took the train into Chicago on
Saturday, wandered around and was surprised to find a massive beach.
Of course I knew the city was on Lake Michigan but I just didn't
associate Chicago with beaches. There, I sat in the sand near a
lovely young woman in a remarkably skimpy bikini. In time, I mustered
up the courage to speak with her.
I
asked her a stupid question as to the whereabouts of a street that
turned out to be the very one I'd crossed to get there. She pointed
out her boyfriend, shamelessly flirting with another woman at the
water's edge. My new friend claimed to be a model and a fledgling
actress, and offered to show me around town—to get even with her
boyfriend, no doubt.
As
we prepared to sneak away, the boyfriend returned, nixing that plan.
I wandered aimless about town and took the 6:00 train rather than the
one at midnight.
Monday
morning, the woman of the house had to go into Chicago and offered me
a ride. A bit unnerved by the rush-hour traffic, she ended up dumping
me smack in the middle of a snarl of highways—forcing me to make a
dash for the nearest ramp and legal hitchhiking ground.
A
car pulled in front of me. “We gotta get you off this road, bub,”
the guy said as I climbed in. “Cop just pulled someone over back
there and you'd be next.”
I
thanked him for looking out for me, and he left me at the top of a
ramp. A more legal place to be—or so I thought. Some time passed
before a police car pulled over. “You gotta be thirty feet off the
road's shoulder,” the cop said.
I
peered down into the ditch—some twenty feet deep—at the ramp's
edge. “Nobody'll see me down there,” I said. He said he'd be back
in a half-hour and I better be gone. I wasn't.
Upon
his return, he pointed down the highway. “There's an oasis about a
mile down the road,” he lied. Five miles, easy. Maybe closer to
ten. I had to ask directions several times. I recall climbing a fence
and wading through a small stream.
Finally
the oasis came in sight: a huge truck stop with restaurants and
always a Howard Johnson. While sizing up the trucks parked there as
possible rides, I spotted a guy exiting the Howard Johnson restaurant
and walking toward me. “How far are you goin'?” he asked.
“New
York City,” I said.
He
stopped in his tracks. “Oh, sorry,” he said and turned back.
“How
far are you goin'?” I called after him.
“Atlantic
City,” he replied. I kid you not.
“I
think we can work something out,” I said, picking up my pack and
following him to his car. He was from Green Bay and wanted to spend
his 21st birthday gambling in Atlantic City. Alone. His
first trip out of Green Bay. Good luck...
Most
people picking up hitchhikers are looking for someone to talk to or
someone to listen to. Not this guy. Not Green Bay. I started out
telling him about my run-in with the cop and my trek to the oasis.
Didn't even get a smile or a shake of the head. I told him of the guy
with the machete and the limo ride. T thought playing poker on a Nevada highway might spark a gambling conversation.
Nothing. Green Bay never said a word that didn't pertain to the
business at hand. I guess I must've driven some, we never stopped
except for gas.

Somewhere
in Pennsylvania, Green Bay declared: “I want to see the Liberty
Bell.” He had maps and guidebooks and I tried to navigate us there.
At least we were talking. But we never found it. Drove round and
round Philadelphia but couldn't find the damn bell. He was dejected
but I had to tell him I really needed to reach New York before it got
dark.
Green
Bay had no business alone in Atlantic City. I could only hope—for
his sake—that he couldn't find a casino either and turned back for
home.
Next
up: My Nine Hour Trip from Philly to NYC